Thanksgiving, Fleet Foxes, and more

Another couple of weeks have gone by, and I think I'm finally starting to get that familiar feeling. I have a routine (albeit a wobbly one at a 4 days work- 3 days weekend ratio), I know my way around, and although I don't totally feel like a Spaniard, I'm starting to feel like I live here. Being here now is a different experience than being in Barcelona for study abroad. I'm not studying, which is weird enough in itself, so the free time I have is basically mine to keep. Besides that, there's no firm expiration date on my stay, and I think that has an effect on my experiences here. I can't begin to explain the way time has been passing by for me... Sometimes it's fast and other times it's slow, but in the blink of an eye December is arriving, and that's pretty surreal.

I was happy that Thanksgiving came around last week for many reasons. Mainly, because I think it's my favorite holiday. Secondly, it reminds me of home. Thirdly, I got to teach the kids at school all about it.

1. Positive: We celebrated Thanksgiving on Thursday night with Americans, Spaniards, turkey, potatoes, sweet potatoes, cornbread, casserole, pies, and wine.
1. Negative: On my first attempt at making pumpkin pie filling from scratch, I forgot to replace the water while steaming the pumpkin and effectively smoked it instead. Goes without saying that I had to re-do it.

2. Positive: I got to skype with my family and see people I hadn't seen in a while (via my sister's iphone)
2. Negative: Even though I'm lucky to have celebrated Thanksgiving with my friends, I got a little homesick. First Thanksgiving away from home, I guess this means I'm growing up.

3. Positive: We made Pilgrim + Indian hats/headbands and watched a Charlie Brown Thanksgiving.
3. Negative: I don't think many children actually understood the meaning of Thanksgiving, or even what I explained to them at all. Most of them thought I was talking about Pirates.

Thanksgiving pictures! (that Karina took)

Munchkins at school on T-givs

The night after, I went to Fleet Foxes with some other Americans that I knew from my hostel days, and they were so good. Helplessness Blues is a great album, if you haven't checked it out, and it was even better in person. There's almost nothing worse than a band who can't perform live, and Fleet Foxes was the opposite. The venue was packed, full of screaming Spaniards and also screaming Americans. I probably haven't seen that many Americans in one place in a while. And plaid- so much plaid. Felt a little like home. Exceeded expectations, and I even got to talk to a few of them afterward. One signed my ticket with a heart. So that was sweet. There's one advantage of being American in Spain!

Beards+Plaid= America?

This has been the most plaid-laden blog post ever... let's see if I can top it one day. 

A

La Tabacalera

It's rare that I find a place so intriguing that I have to go back again the day after finding it. La Tabacalera, however, is such a place. I heard through the grapevine that it was worth checking out, and after it popped up several times on a website I was looking at, I decided I would have to go soon.

This building/venue/place is hard to describe. For starters, it's huge. It used to be a tobacco factory back in the day, and now it's a 'centro social' that is 'autogestionado'- something like an independently run social center. It's located in Lavapiés (direct translation- wash foot) which is an area known for its wide array of social and ethnic backgrounds, among other things. It's a little rough around the edges, but it's cool. From what I've seen, this 'centro social' is made up of spaces for performances, leisure classes, art displays, child care, counseling, and for just hanging out. It's covered in graffiti and there is art hanging all over the walls. It's dirty and smelly and pretty great. One walk through the plastic sheeting that they use as a room separator and you feel like a real bad-ass. The first night I went, there was some sort of video art showing/rave going on in one of the big spaces. There was a DJ and a projector and strobe lights. If that didn't make it surreal enough, the smoke wafting through the air definitely did. The graffiti on the walls was eerily illuminated, and I wandered into the basement (also full of art and junk) even though it was mildly frightening. I enjoyed it so much that I had to see what it was like during the day.

So... I did. Ester and I went back the next day (yesterday). I walked into a large room that probably wasn't open the night before, and was met by the smell of tobacco in the air. A huge curtain of tobacco leaves hid a projection room in which a video was playing on repeat. Could this place get any cooler?

Then we went back to where we were the night before, and it was just as good as it had been then. Probably better, because there were less people around. In a simultaneous moment, I felt both like I shouldn't be there and like I belonged there. It's a good feeling. I took some shots and we explored the back area a bit, which either hadn't been open the night before or was too scary to venture into.

Either way, I will be returning to La Tabacalera, and if you're in Madrid and don't mind getting a little dirty (Ester mysteriously got ink all over her hands) I would recommend checking it out.

http://latabacalera.net/

A

A practicar o portugues!

Hello friends and family and whoever else may be reading this:

It's been a while since I've updated this so I'll try to keep it short. Somehow.

In the past two weeks I:

-Had fun
-Went to Lisboa on my 5 day weekend
-Got sick from forementioned trip (possibly something to do with the 9 hour bus ride) and called in sick for the first time
-Went to work (barely... I have every Friday off plus yesterday was a holiday)
-Came home to a new washing machine in the apartment (this was today... hopefully it works better than the last)
-Have taken quite a few photos. And will be taking more, of course....

Those are some of the highlights, details time!

Lisboa sunrise

So, a little about Lisboa. I had been there last year while backpacking, but it was only for one or two nights. Not nearly enough time, but more destinations had to be seen, and I liked it a lot. This time around, however, I really loved it. We arrived bright and early on Friday and left on Tuesday morning- in this case, four nights were better than one. As you can see, the first sight we were able to see was the sunrise. After waiting for a bar to open and having a coffee we wandered aimlessly to the sea, as is so easily done in Lisboa, and were surprised at our perfect timing. Needless to say, we didn't wake up for the sunrise on any other day. The sunset is a different story... but I'll get to that.

Since I was wearing my camera around my neck for basically every daylight hour of the trip, I decided I would take as many photos of Portuguese people that I could. Toward the end of the trip I kind of eased up a bit, but these are some of the people I snapped. Mostly everyone was pretty willing to let me, especially if I asked them in Portuguese. Which of course I did- when else do I get a chance to practice my rusty Brazilian Portuguese? If it can't be Brazil, then let's make it Portugal.

 

 

   

Speaking of my accent, I kept things really short when talking to people- whether ordering a coffee or asking for directions or being social. That being said, I got asked so many times if I was either Portuguese or Brazilian that I was laughing happily basically every time I spoke. I guess I order a mean cafe com leite to get these people thinking I'm a native. I'll take it!

Lisboa is a beautiful city, and it made me realize how much I miss the ocean. I'd settle for any body of water near me. Madrid is great, but it's missing that. Unless I'm looking for a cloud of rainwater to fall on my head, it can't really offer me much in the water department. I am thrilled to post that I went sunbathing for what is surely the last time this year. It felt better than I would've imagined to be laying in a bathing suit on the sand... especially because I had to take off my pants, socks, and shoes to do it. I'm already tired of wearing pants, socks, and shoes. But let's save 'me vs. the cold' for another day. Back to the sunbathing... we took a train (more like a metro-ride) to Cascais, a beautiful little town right next to Lisboa. It took no time at all and made all the difference in the trip! Perfect weather, perfect everything. The waves were so big on one side of the beach that fully clothed people were getting soaked on the boardwalk. I melodramatically and quickly walked past those areas for fear that my camera would get wet (again, that thing was permanently around my neck).

I'm hoping that the tiny bit of sun I got that day will last me the entire winter. A girl can dream.

We also went to Sintra, now a UNESCO world heritage site which was a teeny town that resembled some old fashioned princess kind of town. It was complete with a castle, a palace, and a beautiful quinta (Quinta de Regaleira). Oh, as well as a waiter who gave me a dozen flirty sugar packets because he could see how much I liked the Portuguese phrases on it. I can't help how my face lights up when I'm into something! Anyway, we chose to stroll the Quinta because it was the talk of the town. With beautiful gardens, caves, and towers, I can see why. It kind of reminds me of the Labyrinth Park in Barcelona, but more beautiful and old fashioned. More Portuguese. 

Quinta da Regaleira 

Sintra

To close off, I have to say that the sky in Lisboa is possibly the most beautiful sky I've ever seen. Whether it's the sunrise, sunset, or just plain the middle of the day- it's something worth looking at. Not sure I've ever seen such vibrant colors... and of course everything just looks better with the water reflecting it.

A

El Ocio

Although I had been apartment searching everyday, I clearly found time to have fun. Priorities!

Madrid is starting to surprise me more and more each day. I was initially not sure if I'd love it here like I loved being in Barcelona, but it's already starting to happen and it's only week 2. I'm getting used to the pace of things around here, which will slightly change when I start working, but I'm excited for it. The general idea seems to be that slow and steady wins the race, and that's just fine with me. Two hour lunches, one hour cups of coffee, "we'll get to your paperwork when we get to it" (haha...)- and it's shaping up to be a wonderful year.

Strolling

My favorite thing to do for now, I think, it to walk around aimlessly... but I doubt it will be for long. By doing that, however, I landed upon a sweet vintage shop and got myself a shirt, so there's that. I could walk around all day just exploring. My legs are about to get real strong.

Fire lady

By night, there's a huge variety of people out and about- even babies? Don't ask. But really, there are always a ton of babies. I love them. I make all sorts of eye contact with them that I'm not supposed to be making with their parents, because here in Madrid, if you look at someone and smile on the street- you may get an eyebrow-raise in return. Oh well.

I've been meeting a lot of interesting people- both Spanish and otherwise, and I'm intrigued by how many different faces I'm going to encounter on this trip. I'm enjoying Spanish wine among other things, and a very nice grandpa helped me pick some out for 30-45 minutes at the market the other day. He gave good advice. Although he looked at me twice when I said I also wanted a bottle of white wine. I get it, we're in the land of the tintos. 

Beer here is... okay, but I already knew that. I don't think Mahou will every be my favorite, but I'm sure one day it'll hold a special place in my heart- kind of like Estrella Damm does (because it reminds me of last summer). Either way, I've had the pleasure of having pretty good beers on two separate occasions at German or Belgian bars and that was pretty exciting. Last night I ordered half a liter of beer by mistake, whoops. It's not like I didn't drink it, though. 

Mmmm (clearly not the half liter)

I'm off to be a tourist today. Or wander the streets aimlessly- the usual.

The Piso Saga

Ladies and gentlemen, I have finally found an apartment. Coming to Spain without accommodation really didn't seem like it was going to be such a headache, especially because that's what our program recommended. Some recommendation! At least I speak Spanish, that's all I'm saying.

What I have found, so far, is that Spaniards are much pickier... and much more patient, about who they pick as a roommate. In the states, or at least in college, the mentality was kind of more 'c'est la vie'... as in, I hope my random roommate doesn't turn out to be crazy, but if they do I'll deal with it then. Here, all shame is pushed aside and the roommates try to get to know you/ask personal questions as they show you around their piso (apartment). The first time I said 'yes' to one (after a few days of searching) I was hit with a shock when the girl (a self-proclaimed actress) said she had to see everyone else who was going to come visit the apartment before deciding if she wanted me. Dramatic, no?

I quickly learned the important things about rooms in Spain. Good location, clean (ish), heat, a window, and an elevator (if you want to get fancy).

And so began the saga of interview-like piso showings where I was internally shouting "I'm cool! I swear! Don't I look normal?! Pick me!". I began saying 'yes' to every livable apartment I saw, just because I knew they would need time to think it over. Then I saw my last apartment, and it's great and I said yes on the spot because I really did want it, and the roommates said yes on the spot as well. Shocker! My future roommate even said I looked like an actress. Sold, and sold. I'm supposed to move in on Saturday.

Pictures to come soon!

Cañas, tapas, and... more tapas

Needless to say, I slept in today. After waking up at 11, Justine and I decided to go walking around, with the goal of deciding which neighborhood I want to live in. Her roommate's sister Cristina invited us to go for apertivos with her and her friends at around 2 PM, so clearly we said yes. As a newcomer to Madrid, any time I have the opportunity to hang out with someone who knows what they're doing, I'm in. Fast forward to 2 PM, bar #1, party of 5. We sat around a keg where we put our little cervezas (literally miniature Amstels) and Cristina's friend's boyfriend paid for the round. Bar etiquette seems to be top notch in that respect, but of course I already knew the 'buying in rounds' system from Barcelona. Gotta love it, and not only because it causes you to drink more in general. 

We met up with 2 more of their friends (another couple) in the street, and rushed on over to bar #2, because apparently we were already late for our meeting with 2 more friends. We walk into a newly refurbished mercado that had a rooftop lounge, but unfortunately there was a line, and Spaniards seem less inclined to wait for something like that than we do. On to the next! We're suddenly using a pick-them-as-you-see-them strategy for bar choosing, and that's A-okay with me. We go to bars #3 and #4 over the next couple of hours, party of 9, cerveza a-flowin'. And tapas. So many tapas. Calamari, croquetas, patatas, russian salad (?), chips, bread, chorizo, and (clearly) an array of jamón to munch on. Split between 9 it wasn't as much as it sounds, but still. 

It's been four hours, and although it's clear the party was going to continue, Justine and I left to go see some pisos I had arranged for. They were awful. When I say awful, I mean it. They were in Malasaña, which is a neighborhood I'd want to live in, but that was about the only good thing. The rooms were literally crawl spaces 3 or 4 feet tall, built above the living room and only accessible via some rickety ladder-like stairs. Not right. And no window. Even if I was short, that's gotta be a fire hazard. At the very least it's a claustrophobia hazard.

Justine and I later went to Isla de Tesoro, or "Treasure Island" restaurant, una 'cocina sana'. Vegetarian! Surprisingly not as unheard of as you'd think. Highlights were an awesome salad with tomato, goat (supposedly) cheese, onions and dates, AND the starter they gave us which was hot chick peas basically with aioli sauce on it and wheat bread. I would use this blog to talk about food. 

Hasta ahora, amigos.