La Tabacalera

It's rare that I find a place so intriguing that I have to go back again the day after finding it. La Tabacalera, however, is such a place. I heard through the grapevine that it was worth checking out, and after it popped up several times on a website I was looking at, I decided I would have to go soon.

This building/venue/place is hard to describe. For starters, it's huge. It used to be a tobacco factory back in the day, and now it's a 'centro social' that is 'autogestionado'- something like an independently run social center. It's located in Lavapiés (direct translation- wash foot) which is an area known for its wide array of social and ethnic backgrounds, among other things. It's a little rough around the edges, but it's cool. From what I've seen, this 'centro social' is made up of spaces for performances, leisure classes, art displays, child care, counseling, and for just hanging out. It's covered in graffiti and there is art hanging all over the walls. It's dirty and smelly and pretty great. One walk through the plastic sheeting that they use as a room separator and you feel like a real bad-ass. The first night I went, there was some sort of video art showing/rave going on in one of the big spaces. There was a DJ and a projector and strobe lights. If that didn't make it surreal enough, the smoke wafting through the air definitely did. The graffiti on the walls was eerily illuminated, and I wandered into the basement (also full of art and junk) even though it was mildly frightening. I enjoyed it so much that I had to see what it was like during the day.

So... I did. Ester and I went back the next day (yesterday). I walked into a large room that probably wasn't open the night before, and was met by the smell of tobacco in the air. A huge curtain of tobacco leaves hid a projection room in which a video was playing on repeat. Could this place get any cooler?

Then we went back to where we were the night before, and it was just as good as it had been then. Probably better, because there were less people around. In a simultaneous moment, I felt both like I shouldn't be there and like I belonged there. It's a good feeling. I took some shots and we explored the back area a bit, which either hadn't been open the night before or was too scary to venture into.

Either way, I will be returning to La Tabacalera, and if you're in Madrid and don't mind getting a little dirty (Ester mysteriously got ink all over her hands) I would recommend checking it out.

http://latabacalera.net/

A

A practicar o portugues!

Hello friends and family and whoever else may be reading this:

It's been a while since I've updated this so I'll try to keep it short. Somehow.

In the past two weeks I:

-Had fun
-Went to Lisboa on my 5 day weekend
-Got sick from forementioned trip (possibly something to do with the 9 hour bus ride) and called in sick for the first time
-Went to work (barely... I have every Friday off plus yesterday was a holiday)
-Came home to a new washing machine in the apartment (this was today... hopefully it works better than the last)
-Have taken quite a few photos. And will be taking more, of course....

Those are some of the highlights, details time!

Lisboa sunrise

So, a little about Lisboa. I had been there last year while backpacking, but it was only for one or two nights. Not nearly enough time, but more destinations had to be seen, and I liked it a lot. This time around, however, I really loved it. We arrived bright and early on Friday and left on Tuesday morning- in this case, four nights were better than one. As you can see, the first sight we were able to see was the sunrise. After waiting for a bar to open and having a coffee we wandered aimlessly to the sea, as is so easily done in Lisboa, and were surprised at our perfect timing. Needless to say, we didn't wake up for the sunrise on any other day. The sunset is a different story... but I'll get to that.

Since I was wearing my camera around my neck for basically every daylight hour of the trip, I decided I would take as many photos of Portuguese people that I could. Toward the end of the trip I kind of eased up a bit, but these are some of the people I snapped. Mostly everyone was pretty willing to let me, especially if I asked them in Portuguese. Which of course I did- when else do I get a chance to practice my rusty Brazilian Portuguese? If it can't be Brazil, then let's make it Portugal.

 

 

   

Speaking of my accent, I kept things really short when talking to people- whether ordering a coffee or asking for directions or being social. That being said, I got asked so many times if I was either Portuguese or Brazilian that I was laughing happily basically every time I spoke. I guess I order a mean cafe com leite to get these people thinking I'm a native. I'll take it!

Lisboa is a beautiful city, and it made me realize how much I miss the ocean. I'd settle for any body of water near me. Madrid is great, but it's missing that. Unless I'm looking for a cloud of rainwater to fall on my head, it can't really offer me much in the water department. I am thrilled to post that I went sunbathing for what is surely the last time this year. It felt better than I would've imagined to be laying in a bathing suit on the sand... especially because I had to take off my pants, socks, and shoes to do it. I'm already tired of wearing pants, socks, and shoes. But let's save 'me vs. the cold' for another day. Back to the sunbathing... we took a train (more like a metro-ride) to Cascais, a beautiful little town right next to Lisboa. It took no time at all and made all the difference in the trip! Perfect weather, perfect everything. The waves were so big on one side of the beach that fully clothed people were getting soaked on the boardwalk. I melodramatically and quickly walked past those areas for fear that my camera would get wet (again, that thing was permanently around my neck).

I'm hoping that the tiny bit of sun I got that day will last me the entire winter. A girl can dream.

We also went to Sintra, now a UNESCO world heritage site which was a teeny town that resembled some old fashioned princess kind of town. It was complete with a castle, a palace, and a beautiful quinta (Quinta de Regaleira). Oh, as well as a waiter who gave me a dozen flirty sugar packets because he could see how much I liked the Portuguese phrases on it. I can't help how my face lights up when I'm into something! Anyway, we chose to stroll the Quinta because it was the talk of the town. With beautiful gardens, caves, and towers, I can see why. It kind of reminds me of the Labyrinth Park in Barcelona, but more beautiful and old fashioned. More Portuguese. 

Quinta da Regaleira 

Sintra

To close off, I have to say that the sky in Lisboa is possibly the most beautiful sky I've ever seen. Whether it's the sunrise, sunset, or just plain the middle of the day- it's something worth looking at. Not sure I've ever seen such vibrant colors... and of course everything just looks better with the water reflecting it.

A

Segovia y tal

Took my first day trip this Saturday to nearby Segovia. I will definitely be doing more mini-trips like this in the future- all I needed was about 7 euros each way and an Ipod full of music. Good to go.

After a small rollercoaster of a morning going to more than one bus station, I headed off to Segovia with Ester and Justine. We left around 1 and planned on getting the 9PM bus back to Madrid, which we did (I'm actually surprised!). An hour later, the hustle and bustle of the city was no more, and we were in Segovia. They have a Roman aqueduct, a castle, and a small Calle Mayor, among other things. Everything was picturesque and it was a nice change of pace from Madrid.

After a large lunch (menu del día consisting of paella, fish, potatoes, and flan) we got to check out the aqueduct. The waiter was very helpful, although a bit long winded, and told me all about the aqueduct. Everyone always explains random things to me in great detail. Maybe it's for the same reason that teachers would always look at me when they talked in class, I don't know. Either way, he told me how the aqueduct worked and some history. When he saw my camera, he brought out a photo album of his own pictures that he had taken around Segovia. He told me where I should go (although admittedly there aren't too many options) and said that if I didn't end up with some nice photographs I could go back to him and complain. I never did.

After admiring the aqueduct a bit, we grabbed a coffee and waited for a small bus to take us to the alcázar (castle/tower) which was supposed to be a 45 minute walk away. A forty-five minute walk is completely doable, but after that meal, we were less than enthusiastic about setting off on a trek. Of course, we wait for the bus for way too long before we realize we were looking for the wrong thing. I ask a nice Segovian passerby and we get on the right one. It's a tiny van-esque bus complete with (you guessed it) a screaming child and plenty of older people. When the driver began zooming through the bumpy streets I was immediately brought back to the time Nicole and I were in a rickety bus in Capri, and I immediately put on my headphones to avert some sort of motion sickness. As luck would have it, we were there in approximately... five minutes. Needless to say, that was definitely not a 45 minute walk, and we happily walked back that night with this newfound knowledge.

We took some pictures at the mirador before getting into the alcázar. After getting off the van bus, this little old man followed me and told me to look at the mirador (even though it was clearly right in front of me), so obviously I followed suit. Nice view, eh?

 Strangers?

Not a stranger

The alcázar was interesting to see. It was complete with bedrooms, etc and a chapel, and Felipe II got married there (if I'm not mistaken). He's not the most famous Felipe, but still. We walked up to the top of the torre (tower), and it was a flashback to all the towers I've ever walked up in my traveling days. Many winding, steep steps that induce claustrophobia and shortness of breath- but that end up in a lovely (in this case, sunsetting) view. Totally worth it. After I caught my breath (in the freezing air- rough) I couldn't help taking more photos... except the one of me which someone else clearly took, haha (jaja).

Atardecer- Arguably the best time of day for a photograph

One thing that did kind of irk me about Segovia is the amount of cochinillo that they eat (suckling pig). I know that Madrid must consume a crazy amount of jamón on the daily, but I don't see the body and face of a tiny baby pig on every plate here. In Segovia, cochinillo is an expensive delicacy, and everybody goes there to eat it. Restaurants advertise these baby pigs with photos and also display them in their windows. Good morning, Andrea! What a way to wake up. I don't think it helped matters that on the day I went to Segovia I was wearing pink socks with piggies on them. Real mature, I know. But relevant. 

Another journey is on the horizon this weekend. Because of the puente and All Saints Day, I have five days off. Lisboa!

In weather news, it's still chilly and it's just going to get even colder. I think it's almost time to get the heaters going inside the apartment. Today, I took a nap with my window door open and that was probably not the smartest idea I've ever had. I'm kind of surprised at my tolerance for cold compared to the Spaniards I've met- for example, at school, all the teachers say they're freezing and they're all bundled up already. Maybe I'm in for a rude awakening as to what 'bundled up' really is. I'll keep you posted.

A

Orange juice and the oncoming cold

I'm waiting for my egg to boil so I can make freshly squeezed orange juice to accompany it for breakfast. I just started making fresh orange juice this week and I don't know if I'll ever be able to go back. I make tiny glasses of it (comprised of three oranges) but hey, you can't win em all. During tutoring this week, I prepared a Scattergories game from scratch and "Breakfast food" was on it. Neither of them got anything for S, and when I offered "sandwich?" they looked at me strangely. I proceeded to explain a breakfast sandwich (egg, cheese, bread) and they thought it was really strange. When I asked what these teens ate for breakfast, their answer was the same as my six year olds. Chocolate milk (colacao- kind of like nesquick) with cookies. Hmm. I think I'll stick to what I know.

Buenos días

Let me begin by saying that yesterday was a lot of fun at school. Half of the teachers went on strike (huelga) about the economic crisis and how it's affecting teachers' pay. Their Holiday bonus seems to be in peril, more hours are being added, and there's just an all-over disarray over here. The teachers at instituto (high school) had already been striking the week or two before, and now I guess it was primary's turn. Since I'm on a scholarship, obviously I had to go to school. When I arrived, I found out that instead of being in my scheduled second grade class, I was going to help out with the four year olds. I wasn't too phased because I know the four year olds (although I'm only with them once a week) and I know their routine. Since some of the parents had decided to keep their kids home that day, we merged the four and five year olds (oh no) and I sort of took it from there.

Of course, when I'm doing the routine the Spanish teacher is usually there to put the CDs on and get everything in order/ They're four, so basically everything has to include singing. Good thing I can carry a note (not that they'd notice if I couldn't). Anyway, none of the CDs are properly labeled and the only song I could find was "I like to go to school". Needless to say we sang that twice and then I led some of the other songs a cappella (shocker) which was okay. Then, some godly woman brought a Disney movie and I didn't have to do much else after that. I put Pinocchio on the smart board (being the youngest, most tech savvy of them all- even though I admittedly even had an issue). Here, Pinocchio is pronounced Pee-no-CH-o. So that's weird. One kid knew which movie it is the millisecond that the opening credits started to play. I clearly know what his favorite movie is. We played it in English and I didn't think they'd understand a thing, but cartoons are so emotive that they did. They commented in Spanish all the way through. If I were to give advice, it's never try to enjoy a movie with 30 four/five year olds because you won't be able to. I had like a perma shh attached to my face.

Yesterday I also found a perfect area to eat lunch in. It's both calm and boasting a huge range of people getting lunch in the area. The little place where we decided to eat had olive trees (I think?) and rocky sand and benches and shade. Need I say more? Plus, after we ate we were offered a sampling of champagne from one of the restaurants nearby. Score.

Besides all that, the weekend is here again, and I am in awe at how it arrived so quickly. Having Fridays off are nice after a long week of running around (with children, to top it off). I started private tutoring this week (more children, oh no), but one of them was so much of a commute from my school that I'll have to end it. Maybe, just maybe, I should think about tutoring someone who is not a child. It would be nice to spend some time working with an adult. A girl can dream, can't she?

Happy about the fresh air

Speaking of fresh air, it's getting chilly. Although today will be a high of 70 (perfect?) the morning started off at 40ish and it'll dip back down to 40 tonight. I think this signals the beginnings of winter, and I'm a bit nerviosa, but ready for the challenge. It's been unseasonably hot, so I guess I've been spoiled. I've probably been weather-spoiled all my life. Here we go!

A

Days off, holidays, y más

Today in Spain, we celebrated our version of Columbus day (did I just write "our"?) and I didn't have to go to work! If I am reading my calendar correctly (and I am), we have at least one special day off every month of the school year except one. And I think I forgot to mention that I also have every Friday off. Life is feeling pretty good right about now.

Before I get into today, a little adjustment to the last post- I no longer have any three year olds in class, which is just fine with me. I am mostly working with the 6 and 7 year olds, twice a week I have five year olds, and once I'm with the four year olds. The kids still like me, and I still like them. I learn new compliments about myself almost every day- it's really a bit bizarre how complimentary the children are, but I guess that's just the culture. I won't complain. If they want to tell me how cool my nail polish is and how much they missed me since last class, so be it!

The strangest part about my Spanish schedule is definitely the amount of breaks that they have. I don't know if I'll  ever feel normal enjoying a 2 hour lunch, but we'll see what eventually happens. One day this week I went to a nearby (ish) park with the two other auxiliares at my school to enjoy some of this break-time outside. There is only so much time I can spend checking my nonexistant emails. 

It was a cool park with sculpture/installations and some nice grassy spots in the shade where I ate my lunch. 

Today, I went wandering the streets with my roommate, Ester (Swedish!) and we walked into Instituto Cervantes which has free art exhibits in it. Right now there is one about young artists and I loved it, plus it's free. 

Ester & the artwork

Me & Fotos

We later met up with Justine and Nathalia and went back to Cervantes at night for a free alternative music concert, so that was fun. Having a mini-weekend in the middle of your week is always a good thing. I have to go to work tomorrow, and then it's weekend time!

I love weekend time. Actually, I think I love almost everything about everything right now. Keep you posted- A

Los niños

I have only been in the classroom for two days, but I feel like I should write some of these mini anecdotes down before they get replaced by other more ridiculous ones.

Let me begin by saying I have quite the range of ages to deal with. Three to seven years old. Oh, you heard me right. THREE to seven. I am mostly working with the six and seven year olds, and I'm not the main "teacherrr" (Spanish accent) in the classroom, although it's only the second day and who knows what I've gotten myself into. Just joking. Sort of.

The first kids I met were the 7 year olds, and they are a rambunctious bunch. The class has a few standouts, including a set of Romanian (I think that's what they said?) twin sisters who called me guapa and said my accent was guay (cool) and asked to touch my (apparently nice) hair all within the first half an hour. They're troublemakers, and their English leaves much to be desired, but I know I like them already. There's this other cool girl who ice skates and sits way in the back of the class alone (which means she knows how to behave), and this one smart alec (but nice) boy who has a large fake diamond stud in his ear. Speaking of earrings, one blonde/blue eyed girl (a rarity!) told me she was bringing me a pair of earrings after the first day. Totally unnecessary, girl! At least wait until next week...

Now that I think of it, there are too many standouts to go listing them off like this, because I'll undoubtedly take up the whole page just describing the seven year olds. And there is so much to be said about the others.

The six year olds are better than the seven year olds, at least in behavior terms. They still get excited by sing-a-longs (whereas the 7's are way too mature for this) and although they're silly, they usually listen to their elders. I guess I'm an elder. Ish. There's one very smart boy who always shouts out all the answers and understands the point of everything faster than the rest of the class- who may not ever understand it at all. Instead of being annoying, it's actually kind of nice. At least someone gets it. There are a lot of little boys in this class, and one in particular (with spiky gelled hair) is shaping up to be quite the character. The first day, he blew me kisses after class, after looking at me every 3 minutes. Today, he came into class crying because one of his peers had pushed him in the playground. A teacher came in yelling at the other kid and saying he had to apologize to this one and kiss him. Oh, differences in culture! Later, he worked up the courage to tell me that another boy told him that he thought I was guapa. In the same class, another little boy asked me a question- and as I walked toward him to answer, he began reeling me in with a fake fishing line. You've gotta love these mini-Spaniards, they are definitely a hoot.

Just a tidbit about the three year olds before this blog post becomes way too long. I really don't know how I'm going to teach them English, but at least they usually have a perma smile on their face that won't go away (mostly because they can't understand what I'm saying). Either way, it's nice to have kids shouting "Hello" and "Bye-bye!" to you in the hallway, if they can even pronounce those. Today I taught them how to say "cookie please", as I passed out cookies and served them water from a pitcher. Wait, is this English class or a restaurant? I don't know, but I quickly learned to pass out cookies at the beckon call of "coopsie pleeks". Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

That's all for now- this is definitely going to be one interesting year!

A

Shoutout to Lo who I'm skype-chatting with (she made me).

And the saga turns into a fiasco

I last reported that I had found a perfect apartment- perfect area, perfect price, perfect roommates, you get the picture. How quickly have I learned that timeless adage... yeah, that one about things being too good to be true, or something like that. The girl whose room I was going to move into today (the same girl who I had already given a deposit to) decided at the last minute to take a job offer and stay in Madrid.  AKA, to essentially kick me out on my butt. She felt bad, but I think I felt worse. I understand that it's not really her fault, but there was a tense anxious freak-out moment (just one), and then I had to start from scratch.

So I sent a hundred more emails and made as many more phone calls as my saldo ($) would allow, and (to make a long story short), I found the room that I'm writing this from. The room itself is much nicer than the other, with newly painted walls and an EXTERIOR full length pair of window/doors that lead out onto a tiny balcony (exterior is apparently a big deal here). However, the piso probably leaves a thing or two to be desired, such as cheap rent, and oh... a living room. Yeah, but who needs one at my age anyway? Hopefully not me.

The area is the same one I wanted to live in, and I can already tell it's going to be a good time. Being able to walk to and fro to nearly every central sitio is definitely nice, although my feet might tell you otherwise. My shoes too, poor things are getting eaten up.

I took my first trip to IKEA today to christen the making of my new room (and also so I didn't have to use the grandpa comforter that was on my twin bed). It was an experience. First of all, there are three Ikeas in Madrid. Overkill? Not sure, since so far I've seen almost every piso furnished with something from there. Justine and I chose to go to this one that seemed not so far, mostly because Cristina explained  to Justine exactly what to do and how to do it. What a saint. We had to go to a certain metro stop, go to the subterranean levels, and hop on a bus in a big underground garage. Sidenote: I think the driver of the bus thought he was in the movie Speed. Either that, or that he was driving a sports car. It was kind of fun at first, but then I started feeling bus-sick. What else is new.

We arrived to the Ikea within 20-ish minutes, and almost the entire bus got off at the stop. I made friends with a nice older lady who had a scratchy voice and said I spoke Spanish very well for an American. She was cool. I was overwhelmed after minute 5 in the store, and we probably spent 2 hours there. Of course we grabbed something to eat there... including spinach crepes? Who knew. I got sheets, comforter, curtains, frames, hangers, a towel, a pillow, and that's it. It was enough, though. That's for sure. I purchased a huge bag for a euro and some change (you have to buy all your shopping bags here) and popped it on my shoulder (nearly dislocating it) to head back toward the bus/onward to the metro. It must've weighed an easy 35 pounds. I was a spectacle to see, but thankfully my metro stop wasn't tooo far from the bus terminal.

Some visual imagery for you

Pictures of my room to come soon, once I've fully settled in. I begin work at the school on Monday, say what?! Can't wait to meet the little Spanish children. Hasta ahora, A